Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit

Siula Pass - 4800m

*Check out the rest of our flickr pics of the trek by clicking on the latest travel pics to the right or on the ‘more photos’ link*

Laguna Mitacocha - Room with a view!

We survived! We have just moved on from Huaraz after completing our 10 day trek in the Cordillera Huayhuash region on Sunday … and are still recovering! They were without a doubt 10 of the most physically gruelling days trekking either of us have had. Due to the altitude (between 4200m and 5100m) and daily, relentless steep ascents and descents we were constantly exhausted despite our nightly 11 hours of rest!

En route to Siula Pass

However, we were rewarded with incredibly spectacular scenery of towering snow covered peaks and glacial lakes making the hard work worthwhile.

Each day there was a high pass to cross; on days six, eight and nine there were two passes, the highest being 5100m. Hiking at altitude is difficult to describe. The mind is willing but the body does not always respond at times making the steep climb to the pass feel nearly impossible. It is inconsistent too in its effect.

Post-lunch slumber ... trying to fire up for the equally tough descent to Laguna Carhuacocha (Day 3)

Some days you feel fantastic only to wake the next day with legs that drag and lungs that sting. Yet the high altitude also makes it possible to hike breathtakingly close to the snow line and the thundering glaciars.

To get around the circuit trekkers use the assistance of a guide and pack animals (donkeys). We were lucky as our guide, Rosmel,  from Huascaran Adventure Agency, was a humble, young,  hard working (and super fit!) local with reasonable English who also happened to be a master chef. We were well fed – waking to apple pancakes and hot chocolate, for lunch he prepared salads on the mountain and dinners were a three course affair.

Our lifesavers - working very hard to climb Cuyoc Pass (5100m)

After 10 days though the quality of ‘fresh’ produce naturally deteriorated and we don’t want to see another potato for the rest of our travels! Our ariero (donkey driver), Isaias, was a jovial family man from the small village of Llamac (80 people). He had his own horse and had a knack, most of the time, for making his 4 donkeys work very hard. However, on day seven we woke to find the donkeys nowhere in sight. A 2-hour search by Isaias on horseback, scouring the entire valley and climbing back up to the 5100m Cuyoc Pass, were met to no avail. Only for him to return and find the donkeys had all along been ‘hiding’ (camouflaged) in amongst the rocks on the hillside directly above our campsite – smart animals! Our suggestion that maybe the donkeys should be tied up at night was only met by a ‘stupid foreigner’-type glance from both Rosmel and Isaias! Interestingly, the following day the donkeys were once again nowhere to be seen! No comment.

Spectacular views after tough climb up to Rondoy Pass (4735m)

On our ninth day we made a roundtrip climb to the final pass of Punta Rondoy at 4735m and looked back over the soaring peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash we had just finished circumnavigating. Getting out of the tent that morning our bodies ached and all we wanted was to

be back in a warm bed with a hot shower and normal toilet. But climbing to that pass we didn’t want it to be over. It was a magical experience.

We have now returned to sea level (bliss for the lungs) and are slowly making our way up Peru’s north coast en route to Ecuador. Currently in the small fishing village of Huanchaco we are catching another overnight bus to the beach town of Mancora tonight. Hoping to chase down some sun – having had little luck with the thick clouds here!

Cordillera Huayhuash

A brief summary of our 10-day trek (campsites and daily climbs) follows for those interested:

Day 1 – Camp at Matacancha – 4150m

Day 2 – Punta Cacanan Pass – 4685m; Camp at Laguna Mitacocha – 4230 m

Day 3 – Pass – 4800m; Camp at Laguna Carhuacocha – 4138m

Day 4 – Siula Pass – 4800m; Camp at Laguna Carnicero – 4430m

Catching our breath at Cuyoc Pass (5100m). With our guide, Rosmel.

Day 5 – Portachuelo de Huayhuash pass – 4750m; Camp at Pumarinri Hot Springs – 4340m (ahhh, bliss!)

Day 6 – Cuyoc Pass – 5100m & San Antonio Pass – 4800m; Camp at Guanacapatay Valley – 4350m

Day 7 – no pass but briefly dipped into remote village of Huayllapa (3500m) & had to climb back out!; Camp at Huatiac – 4350m

En route to Rondoy Pass

Day 8 – Punta Tapuish pass – 4800 m & Punta Yaucha pass – 4840m; Camp at Laguna Yahuacocha – 4050m

Day 9 – Punta Rondoy pass – 4735m & Sambunya Pass – 4750m; Camp 2^nd night at Laguna Yahuacocha – 4050m

Day 10 – Walk out to Llamac village & bus back to Huaraz!

Total Distance: 150km

Last day - 6am - so close to the finish line in Llamac!